Crescent shape washer?

[toomanyangelz]

Hastily took my disty off trying to install the HEI Mod. Rotor still spins and everything when cranking. i have good grounds and B+ and Terminal B of the HEI. Grounds aren't dropping any volts. But the G terminal has B+ with key on ignition off, if im not mistaken thats the ecu trigger wire (orange). Should that be constantly B+? Will it fluctuate when cranking/normal op?

Anyways back to the main issure where the heck does this washer go that i took off from the disty?

[Daninski]

Did you read and follow this. http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/hei/index.htm

[toomanyangelz]

yeah i did i had a bad splice connection now im getting spark just wont start

[speedray]

Hello,

Check that you have the timing correct.
Position cylinder 1 at tdc, to check that its in the right place, remove the spark plug and use a long screwdriver to check that you are in the correct place, if not turn the crank into the correct position.

Now check that the rotor arm is close to position 1 in the dizzy, and make sure that the ht leads are in correct order.

Also don't try to start the car while in diagnostic mode as this does stop the car from starting (Found that out the hard way)

[toomanyangelz]

The plugs are kind of carbon fouled, I'm going to buy new ones when i get the chance. I rewired most of the connections with my Wells portable butane iron, the thing works wonders. Especially with the flux I've been using. I also have 12 awg wire for the ground connections now. Additionally, I filed the backs of the plates/brackets to take off any residual coating that might be there along with the frame where mounts to. Re-did the crimps, removed the plastic back and then soldered them to make extra sure its good connection. The ign (-) red wire still needs to be converted from a crimp to solder connections though.

Do you know what the best way of manually turning the crank is? Like what size socket do i need can I get to it without jacking it up or anything?

[speedray]

Hello,

With regards to the spark plugs have a look here http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/12/2 ... ark-plugs/

As for the crank nut, i can't remember what size it is as its been a long time since iv'e needed to use it.
However you will need to jack the car up to remove the splash guard for the best access, you might be able to get to it from the top of the engine but you will scrap some knuckles doing so.

The other way of turning the engine would be to put the car in gear and roll it, i would advise 2 people to do this though and with the ignition OFF.

[toomanyangelz]

Do I need it on the compression stroke or something for the TDC? How do I find that out? Besides with a long screwdriver?

[speedray]

Hello,

The first question would be what engine do you have? (1.6 or 1.8 V6)
Each engine has a different way of getting to TDC
The only reason for the long screwdriver is that its the easiest way i know without a load of other tools and meters
Turn the engine manually so the piston 1 is at the top and check the rotor arm location then turn the engine again so that piston 1 is at the top again and check the rotor arm location again.
This does depend on the engine that you have though.

[clearconscience]

its the 1.8 L what are the methods? by the way for anyone else viewing its a 21 mm for the crank.

[clearconscience]

Just realized I logged onto my other account that was saved. Anyways i took the rotor and distributor apart internally when i removed the grounding strap for the mod. The nut that the rotor attaches is held on by a screw and can rotate independently of the actual distributor. Does that mean I definitely have to find tdc compression of number 1 cylinder to realign the rotor with that point on the cap?

[toomanyangelz]

Turns out the rotor is actually keyed into the distributor. found compression with thumb for no reason with a friend. just reinstalled vaf, new plugs. jumped the ten and ground and reset the idle to about 900 which is around 700 when u take the jumper wire out. its running like a top now! No misfire's the resistor from my internal coil shorted out but now I have a tach again with this HEI mod. There also isn't a hesistation anymore, very consistent powerband. Worth it imho.

[speedray]

Hello,

Glad to hear that you have you car going

The other method that i speak of requires a load of computer equipment and service tools to allow the sensors and on board computer to tell you exactly where the engine is in its cycle.

I have been trying to get all the equipment to do this however Mazda has not been very forthcoming with the tools and equipment suppliers.

[clearconscience]

Anyone else reading this in the future, I never put that washer in. I'm not sure if it came off from the grounding strap or i just had it laying around from another project and forgot about it.. but you dont need it.

On a side note since i replaced my factory fan shroud with some after market ziptie fans off ebay its over heating now. I've only installed one though. Before when it was running rich and misfiring i think it kept the engine moderately cool. Lean may be mean but rich at least keeps it cool . Its like a $10 to wire up a new fan. I feel like theres two seperate switches for each fan. If anyone knows feel free to comment. Otherwise i'm splicing the existing one.

[toomanyangelz]

Found out what the overheating was... It wasn't the fan . I replacing a couple cracked engine coolant temperature sensors and thermostat twice.. for good measure , along with both radiator pressure caps and finally wired up the second fan i bought 6 months ago rofl. Turns out the water pump was on its way out and looking back at this post it wasn't really as sudden as I had previously thought. smh. Hindsight 20/20. Thursday my timing belt/water pump kit comes in and it looks like i'm going to have a fun weekend project.

[toomanyangelz]

okay it wasn't the water pump . Turns out it just didn't have any coolant in it. I returned the kit. bleed the new coolant in and what not. What had happened was the coolant pressure built up originally and lost it from the lower radiator cap when I only had on fan hooked up at idle (is when it overheated and overpowered cap aka excess in pressure). Didn't have any coolant or not enough left to cool efficiently. Ever since then all has been well haven't checked the lower hose to see if the thermostat is opening im not sure if its getting hot enough to even open since i may be cooling too efficient. Any advice is much appreciated.