My last minute checklist.. am I missing anything?

[Dark_Rider2k3]

This is my checklist for my B6 to BP swap and ATX to MTX swap:

1. Mazda BP (got)
2. Manual Tranny off Escort GT or Protege LX
3. Axles off same car
4. BP Wiring harness (more of a convenience.. to get rid of the ATX harness)
5. BP Gaskets (got some seals on their way.. oil and water pump seals)
6. Spark plug wires/Spark Plugs
7. BP Distributor (don't have one on mine)
8. Engine Oil and Filter
9. Power steering fluid
10. Gear oil for tranny
11. Antifreeze
12. Timing belt
13. Serpentine Belts (do I get them for the BP or B6?)
14. Manual Transmission mounts (Also... do I get them from the Escort/Protege?)
15. Engine Mounts (I'm guessing it doesn't matter BP or B6)
16. New Clutch and Flywheel (just to get lightweight flywheel and better clutch).


If you see anything on here that I forgot please let me know. I am right now looking at the basics for the swap... as it's nearing the winter I really want to get this swap done before it's too cold out..

thanks everyone!!!

[Inodoro Pereyra]

This may sound silly, but in my experience it's what makes most people have to do a second trip to the auto parts store:

Distributor cap and rotor.
Radiator hoses and heater/bypass hoses.
Vacuum lines.
Axle nuts (don't use the old ones, it's not worth it).

Anti seize, threadlock, dielectric grease, silicone.

I'm not sure, but I think the engine and tranny mounts are the same for the B6/BP, as well as for the ATX/MTX. If you want, I can check it out tomorrow at work.

Also, check your manual. The recommended fluid for the power steering is ATF, not PSF. I honestly don't know if it'd make a difference, but if you have to buy it...

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Oh! I forgot...
You also need a digital camera. (You know, to post the pics here... )

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Thanks for the info! I would have never known that heh. I'll check my manual tomorrow morning on that.

And I thought i put distributor cap/rotor.. but yeah I'm getting that.

Also added your things to my list. Thanks!

haha It wouldn't let me add my post because you added more. And I do have a digital camera!

In fact, I plan to make a photo guide to accompany my swap!!

edit:

noticed I forgot brake fluid. So added that!

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Glad I could help.
Now...you see? I didn't even think of brake fluid. And I deal with people forgetting about it almost daily...

Anyways, one other thing: if you're not completely sure about the clutch master and/or slave cylinder, now would be a good time to replace them.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Glad I could help.
Now...you see? I didn't even think of brake fluid. And I deal with people forgetting about it almost daily...

Anyways, one other thing: if you're not completely sure about the clutch master and/or slave cylinder, now would be a good time to replace them.

Ryan got me those parts .

Speaking of manual tranny parts, I have coming:

Clutch master/Slave cylinder (from Ryan)
corksport stainless clutch lines
Short shifter/Linkage (from trevo)
Shifter Boot (from Nd4)

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Wow. Now I REALLY want to see those pics...

By the way: while you're at it, you could add some engine primer/paint to the list...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

hehe cuz I have so many parts? I guess that's what I get for doing 2 swaps at once

I wanted to get the engine powdercoated but I don't have the money to do it all. I am wondering if I should just primer/paint the engine, or wait and powdercoat it later?

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Well, that'd be up to you.
If it was me, if I had the chance to get the money in the short (ish) run, and my actual engine was running properly, I'd hold on the swap until then, and use the time to inspect/blueprint the new engine. As nice as it can be, paint will never look as good, or be as durable as powder coating.
Now, if your engine is busted and you just gotta do it, your choices get kinda limited...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Well my engine isn't busted at all. Runs strong. The thing I'm concerned with is the winter approaching. This is my first swap, and I want to have enough time to actually do it.. and I don't want the engine to sit throughout the winter ya know?

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Yeah, for what I heard, winter in PA gets pretty cold...

Anyways, that's a question only you can answer. How long would it take you to get the money for the powder coating?
If it'll take you a month, for example, you still have time, but if it'll take you 6 months, you're better off doing the swap now, and maybe keeping the engine you have now to swap it again once you're ready for the PC. Or you could just cut your losses and use paint.

If you were to do a full blueprinting, it'd take you probably about 15 hs of actual work (maybe 20, if you take your time), and half a ton of money, but if you make what I call a "mild" blueprinting (basically a good valve lapping, checking HLAs, valve springs, seats, guides, replacing all seals, all gaskets, new piston rings, hand honing, replacing all bearings, checking , and eventually replacing, water and oil pump,polishing intake runners, and assembling and TORQUING down everything up to specs), should not take you more than 5-6 hs.

Of course, you don't "HAVE" to do it, but personally, I wouldn't swap an engine without doing at least that (and, of course, a full tune up).

So, my point is, you could have the engine in your car and working 2-3 days after receiving the powder coated parts. Maybe a week, if you're short on time. So, if you can get the money soon enough, it'd be a shame to put the engine on to just have to take it back off again in a few weeks.

Also, remember I live in Miami, so winter is not really a concern here. You know better than anyone how long you have before everything starts turning white...

[umcamara]

Don't forget clutch & brake pedal assemblies.

And BP ECU, if you're using the BP engine harness.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Yeah, for what I heard, winter in PA gets pretty cold...

Anyways, that's a question only you can answer. How long would it take you to get the money for the powder coating?
If it'll take you a month, for example, you still have time, but if it'll take you 6 months, you're better off doing the swap now, and maybe keeping the engine you have now to swap it again once you're ready for the PC. Or you could just cut your losses and use paint.

If you were to do a full blueprinting, it'd take you probably about 15 hs of actual work (maybe 20, if you take your time), and half a ton of money, but if you make what I call a "mild" blueprinting (basically a good valve lapping, checking HLAs, valve springs, seats, guides, replacing all seals, all gaskets, new piston rings, hand honing, replacing all bearings, checking , and eventually replacing, water and oil pump,polishing intake runners, and assembling and TORQUING down everything up to specs), should not take you more than 5-6 hs.

Of course, you don't "HAVE" to do it, but personally, I wouldn't swap an engine without doing at least that (and, of course, a full tune up).

So, my point is, you could have the engine in your car and working 2-3 days after receiving the powder coated parts. Maybe a week, if you're short on time. So, if you can get the money soon enough, it'd be a shame to put the engine on to just have to take it back off again in a few weeks.

Also, remember I live in Miami, so winter is not really a concern here. You know better than anyone how long you have before everything starts turning white...

lol let me answer this in steps:

1. I'm not sure how much it will cost to powder coat. I can look it up and see and maybe get it done beforehand. It shouldn't take me long to get the money for it, but I would rather use said money to get the other stuff I still need. And if I had to wait until next summer to PC it, I wouldn't have to worry about my current engine. I can borrow my dad's truck to use for a while if I have to (he has 2 cars so he wouldn't mind lending me one).

2. What is valve lapping? and I can get the HLA's/valve springs/seats/guides checked at work (which I'll actually do next week when I get 'em off). As for seals, gaskets, rings, and water/oil pump.. I am replacing them (oil/water pump not on the list but I have them). As for hand honing i'll look into that, as well as a good polishing. I wanted to get the engine ported as well, and may look into that. See what time/cost it would be.

And yeah.. It won't start turning white until November/early october, but october can be cold, and I'd rather not do it in the cold.. but we shall see what happens . If I can get my dad's garage to be used, then the winter is no concern to me anymore heh.


and to reply to umcamara.. Ryan got the clutch/brake pedal assembly along with the slave and master cylinder. And last March Trevo gave me the BP ECU to use (just need the BP harness).

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Great. Then, as far as I can see, your checklist is complete.

Valve lapping is the last step in getting the valves properly seated.
It means taking each valve and putting it in its place (without the springs), with some valve lapping compound (basically polishing compound) between it and the seat, making sure none of the compound get in the valve guide. Then, you take a valve lapping tool (you can find it at most auto parts stores. It's a wooden handle with a small suction cup at each end), stick it on the valve head and roll it between your hands, to make the valve spin on its shaft, and that way polish both the valve cup's edge and the seat's edge together, so their surfaces match. A lot of fun, for the first 10 seconds or so, and a PITA for the rest of the time, but still the best way to make the valves close properly.

Hand honing is, most of the times, not as good as machine honing, but it's still better than assembling an engine on perfectly polished cylinder walls.

[umcamara]

Yeah... I saw him at the wrecker's one day, and he said he was looking for the pedal assemblies and stuff.

Guess it was for you.