REAR TAIL LIGHTS FUSE BLOWING!!

krazysteve · Post by **krazysteve** » November 27th, 2007, 4:22 am

I have a 95 1.8 v6, bought it off ebay, the problem it has is the 10 amp fuse that keeps blowing. Ive removed most of the internal trim checking for any shorts. ( i think at some time it has a rear end shunt) Cannot see anything out of the ordinary, has anyone got any ideas before i start ripping fuse box and dash apart

The other thing is the facia lights don't work, are these on the same circuit

umcamara · Post by **umcamara** » November 27th, 2007, 4:44 am

The tail light bulbs have two filaments. One is for the brakelights, and one for the taillights. Often, one of the filaments will short out and cause the fuse to blow. Try removing bulbs individually and applying your brakes, and see if the fuse still blows.

krazysteve · Post by **krazysteve** » November 27th, 2007, 4:53 am

Cheers for that bit of info, how do you remove the rear lights, i can see one screw that retains the unit, but it seems reluctant to move. I don't want to force it to much in case i've missed something.
P.s i should have mentioned when i put the fuse in then turn the lights on, the fuse blows

umcamara · Post by **umcamara** » November 27th, 2007, 5:02 am

Remove the visible screws, I believe there's 2 phillips head screws on the outside. Then pull outward evenly on the assembly. It takes a bit of force because they're held in by some fairly strong clips.

Post by **Mooneggs** » November 27th, 2007, 10:26 am

umcamara wrote:Remove the visible screws, I believe there's 2 phillips head screws on the outside. Then pull outward evenly on the assembly. It takes a bit of force because they're held in by some fairly strong clips.

yep this is it... just one philips on the inner side of the taillight, don't worry about the 2 screws on top of it. once you have done the one bigger philips just pull on the light and it will pop off... it is best to do this when it is NOT cold outside or there is a chance the small plastic pieces will break... so if you have a garage do it in there.

once the light is off the car you can untwist the bulb housings to get to the bulbs...

krazysteve · Post by **krazysteve** » November 27th, 2007, 3:35 pm

Yep, light out no probs, bulbs look ok. Disconected rear lights from main loom, fuse blew again

Looks like multi meter out tommorrow, to try and test back to the fuse, i will post "owt" i find.

(yorkshire accent)

shameem · Post by **shameem** » November 27th, 2007, 6:29 pm

The online manual section Z has detailed electrical diagrams. Also i dont see a 10A fuse for tailights - there is a 15A fise for tails and 20A for brakes. The only 10A fuse in the lighting area is for DRL i think.

krazysteve · Post by **krazysteve** » November 29th, 2007, 4:04 pm

Checked back from tail lights, rearlight down to earth. Split main loom on connector above rear wheel arch, this part clear, tested back to fuse box, down to earth. Try again Friday weather permitting, i reckon it's got to be rubbing on the chassis somewhere? Slow going i'm colour blind, 12yr old son putting me right.

94mxthree · Post by **94mxthree** » November 30th, 2007, 7:36 am

Your fuse may be to small,mines got a 15amp fuse,i dont see how anybody would use a 10amp fuse way to small,but i had a similar experience with mine,so i stuck a 25amp fuse in there and its been working since,good thing about it,the fuse dosent get warm so i would think the 15 amp was to small,i don't have an owner Manuel to find the correct size fuse,but its working so I'm cool with it.

Aston Wards · Post by **Aston Wards** » December 8th, 2007, 3:56 pm

Do you have an aftermarket stereo? If the dimmer wire is being used as a power wire it'll blow the fuse.
There should be a diagram on the fuse box cover showing the ratings and placements of fuses, don't be tempted to stick a higher rated fuse in the wrong location, short-term solution leading to a VERY expensive problem!

umcamara · Post by **umcamara** » December 8th, 2007, 5:10 pm

Aston Wards wrote:Do you have an aftermarket stereo? If the dimmer wire is being used as a power wire it'll blow the fuse.
There should be a diagram on the fuse box cover showing the ratings and placements of fuses, don't be tempted to stick a higher rated fuse in the wrong location, short-term solution leading to a VERY expensive problem!

Usually people will use the dimmer wire as a ground, that's commonly what blows the fuse. People will test the dimmer wire, and it'll show ground so they'll use it as ground. As soon as they turn on their parking lights though, that wire has 12 volts potential, and the fuse blows.

I worked as a car audio installer up until a few months ago. I can't tell you how many people brought their cars in after trying to install their own deck. Their problem was as soon as they turned their lights on, they blew the fuse. Every time, they'd grounded the deck to the dimmer wire.

Aston Wards · Post by **Aston Wards** » December 9th, 2007, 12:28 am

Ha! yup, that sounds very familiar

Just one of those things you have to f#$k up before you can learn

94mxthree · Post by **94mxthree** » December 9th, 2007, 9:44 am

Ok last night went out,and put in a 10 amp fuse instead of the 25,and it didn't blow,so I'll keep my eye on it.But does it take a 10 or 15 amp fuse,mine doesn't have a cover to know?

krazysteve · Post by **krazysteve** » December 26th, 2007, 5:26 pm

Had a play today, fault somewhere in the dash, rear loom ok. If i take one off the connector blocks off just above the fuses on the main fuse board in the footwell, fuse dose't blow, got to check back to see what this is to. Gone cold now try again Friday.

2fazed · Post by **2fazed** » December 27th, 2007, 3:32 am

I had the same problem with a few different Mazda's. Like the dimmer wire, when putting aftermarket stereos in. The problem was using the stock ground wire. I had to make a new one. Maybe if you disconnected the stereo, and tried it, see if it makes a difference.