Did anyone do the Big Three with their MX-3?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 21st, 2006, 7:49 pm

Looking good. On the first pic, I see a wire from (+) terminal going towards and physically touching the (-) terminal. Although it is insulated it should be fused at no more than 6 inches away from the (+) terminal, at the terminal is best. Also because it's not fused before it crosses the (-) terminal, if the insulation rubs away by vibration it may develop into a dead short across the battery terminals! Not a good thing!

I would reposition the fuse on the second wire connected to the battery (+) terminal before it crosses the (-) battery terminal as shown in pic. Also is the Alternator wire fused? If it's connected directly from the (+) battery terminal to alternator I would use a fuse there also! This fuse should be there to protect the charing circuit and the value is determined by car model. RS= 80 Amp GS= 100 Amp

EDIT: BTW - Which is the wire to the starter?

chertel · Post by **chertel** » January 21st, 2006, 8:45 pm

I have my power wire to my amp fused more than six inches away from the + terminal on my battery on the wire going to the amp. Is that o.k or too much? like a foot away from the +terminal.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 21st, 2006, 9:16 pm

chertel wrote:I have my power wire to my amp fused more than six inches away from the + terminal on my battery on the wire going to the amp. Is that o.k or too much? like a foot away from the +terminal.

Any wire connected to the (+) battery terminal should be fused AND no more than a few inches or less of the battery (+) terminal. A fused terminal connector is best. The reason is that if the power wire develops a short against the car's body (-) before the fuse, it will create a dead short across the battery with the potential to cause a lot of damage including fire. On the other hand if the fuse is near the battery (+) terminal and the wire after the fuse develops a short against the car's body (or anything else connected to the (-) or grounded) the fuse will blow to stop current flow from causing any damage. So the fuse must be very close to the (+) terminal for good protection.

Mazdaspeed96743 · Post by **Mazdaspeed96743** » January 22nd, 2006, 5:09 am

Thanks for the input guys im gonna work on the car tomorrow then and fix the problems you noticed on the low quality pics that is at risk.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 25th, 2006, 10:59 am

The use of wiring corrugated tubing is also a good idea on (+) wire runs, especially longer runs to help protect agains scuffing etc..

Mazdaspeed96743 · Post by **Mazdaspeed96743** » January 27th, 2006, 1:53 am

Okie thank you so much man your the biggest help ever =D.

wide_mx3 · Post by **wide_mx3** » January 27th, 2006, 2:05 pm

I did the big three. I recomend you use nothing less than 4g wire. If your system is shutting down totally then you have other problems with the electrical system. I would check your battery to make sure it's holding enough charge. I would guess your battery is about to take a dump. If your battery and alt check out then you need to upgrade the battery and alt to supply the power you need. If that isn't an option then the obvious answer is to down grade your system.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » January 27th, 2006, 5:48 pm

wide_mx3 wrote:I did the big three. I recomend you use nothing less than 4g wire. If your system is shutting down totally then you have other problems with the electrical system. I would check your battery to make sure it's holding enough charge. I would guess your battery is about to take a dump. If your battery and alt check out then you need to upgrade the battery and alt to supply the power you need. If that isn't an option then the obvious answer is to down grade your system.

Makes sense. Onother option instead of downgrading a system would be to upgrade the battery or even add a 2nd battery

jbruynson · Post by **jbruynson** » February 15th, 2006, 4:19 am

Do not get a cap if your already having electrical problems, it's only going to put even more strain on your alt. Caps are fairly useless anyway, definately not worth the money.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » February 15th, 2006, 12:40 pm

jbruynson wrote:Do not get a cap if your already having electrical problems, it's only going to put even more strain on your alt. Caps are fairly useless anyway, definately not worth the money.

Quite frankly the statement above makes no sense and is simply a very broad and general opinion. I spent consideral time posting on this subject stating facts and I disagree.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 17th, 2006, 3:51 pm

FlyVFR wrote:You'll probably need a cap to compensate for quick power surges as well then. Try the BIG 2 first.

You don't need a cap to compensate. What do you think the battery does? It floats the voltage. A cap will only keep the lights from dimming, and even then only as a bandaid when you should have done the big three.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » February 17th, 2006, 6:23 pm

lakersfan1 wrote:
FlyVFR wrote:You'll probably need a cap to compensate for quick power surges as well then. Try the BIG 2 first.
You don't need a cap to compensate. What do you think the battery does? It floats the voltage. A cap will only keep the lights from dimming, and even then only as a bandaid when you should have done the big three.

I've already posted the answer, but I'll state it again. It depends on power requirements to run a specific system. Why do you think they sell caps for? Looks?

Yes, a cap is the opposition to voltage change and if it keeps the lights from dimming then there is your proof that it's working! Capish?

Mazdaspeed96743 · Post by **Mazdaspeed96743** » February 20th, 2006, 3:21 am

I recently upgraded my electrical system. I now have an Optima Redtop and I couldn't be any happier on how much better my system sounds now

.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » February 20th, 2006, 12:09 pm

So you did the "big 3" and the big "B"

Very good enjoy!

BTW- Why have you chosen the red top over the yellow deep cycle?