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Exactomundo David. Just like bleeding brakes. If no bleeding has been done during the clutch replacement process, than of course this will happen. And since you said it took about 25 miles for this to kick in, I'd say that was enough mileage for the air pockets in the line to travel to a point where the clutch pedal pressing will be ineffective. Don't forget to ensure the brake fluid reservoir level doesn't go below the low fill level during the process. You do know that that's where the clutch draws it's fluid from. Hopefully you haven't introduced those trapped air pockets into the the brake system as well. If so, it will require full bleeding of the entire brake system as well. Don't want to chance loosing your brakes all of a sudden either, right? Did you not follow the directions from the online shop manual? Hmmmm, very strange.DavidOS wrote:well if the clutch/flywheel and tranny were all mounted up correctly, in other words you could bolt it all back up. Then after that you would need to bleed the clutch line, by opening the little ipple/bleeder screw and pumping the clutch pedal many times after you close it. Keep doing this until the clutch pedal feels "resistant"
actually after all engine swaps and change in flywheel/clutch,Rick Johnson wrote:It does sound like there is air in the system...
But you shouldn't have to bleed the clutch line after a new clutch ever. If you didn't open the hydraulic system then you should be looking elsewhere. That would be like bleeding your brakes after putting new pads on...
What did you use to torque the PP to the flywheel? also how's the tranny fluid level. Was the flywheel machined - properly?
Really? every clutch I've done I have never had to bleed the system.... thats really odd to me. There is no physical way air could get in you just swing the slave cylinder out of the way and put it back after... like I said it would be like bleeding your brakes after putting new pads on, hell or bleeding brakes after putting new wiper blades on...it just don't make sense.DavidOS wrote:
actually after all engine swaps and change in flywheel/clutch,
it is alway recommended to bleed the clutch, every engine swap
and change in clutch ive ever done, has always resulted in no
pressure in the clutch line, and have always had to bleed it,
some need alot of bleeding some need little.
Thats my personal experience.
Besides that its good practice irregardless.
. Thanks for all the feedback I'll get back to you afterwords. I also havent been able to talk to my mechanic yet and ask him if he bled the lines or not because he went on vacation the day after he finished the work. Since it was a case of someone paid to do the install than I most certainly would take it back to that shop. I wouldn't even attempt to do the bleeding since there may be other factors involved and it it is made known to your mechanic that you did try to do the bleeding and for some reason exacerbated the problem, than he could turn around and wipe his hands clean of any further responsability. Even if this particular mechanic is on holidays, the shop he's at should still be responsible. I hope this is not again one of these; "I took it to this friend of a friend's shop cause it would be way cheaper", scenario, cause as we all know it doesn't pay to cut corners like this. Take it back my friend and get them to set it right - you paid for it, even if they have to cover the cost of the tow. Have it towed now and finished before day's end.kljordan wrote:ok bleeding the lines is going to be my first thing to go with. I didn't do this clutch change myself I had my mechanic do it. I was going to do it today but i just didnt wake up today at all i didnt wake up until late in the evening and my car is a work so I didnt have daylight to deal with. I'm going to check it out when i get to work tomorrow or before whatever comes first. If not i'll just get paid to work on my car after all i am the manager out there who will yell at me
Thanks Again
