Shaky Steering Wheel
Shaky Steering Wheel
Ok not too sure if anyone can help me with this bit i hope some one can!!! everytime i hit the breaks a little bit hard or slow down very fast or even i am just driving normally i feel the steering wheel tugging to the left. I just spent 80 bucks on wheel alightment and they said all was well? let me know thanks!
- bmwm3guy
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funny cuz thats about as cheap as they come here. Well, there is one place I know that does it for 40$... but you get what you pay for, I hearKeira wrote: 80 bucks is way too much to spend on an alignment

Hard to find a place that does lowered cars so you cant be too picky.
it is most likely one brake that is more worn than the other, or a warped brake disc...
- PATDIESEL
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Bearings shouldn't affect the turning during braking. I'd bet it is the brakes. Did you do the brakes or pay someone to do them for you? If you think about it it will make perfect sense. One brake is grabbing harder than the other forcing he steering wheel to one side. If a shop did them take it back and explain your problem. If you did them then you need to take it all apart and double check your work. Could be several things:
1. didn't grease the slides properly
2. didn't have the rotors turned or they did a poor job of it, also make sure they micrometer the discs to make sure they are not too thin.
3. brake pads are not seated properly or you did not "burn" them in properly, also make sure you have the return springs on, if not Mazda sells them pretty cheap
4. One caliper is bad and is not putting proper pressure on the pad
5. you did not bleed to brakes properly (you should bleed the brakes every time you change pads)
All of those things can cause one side to pull. you need to check them all and if you don't know what I'm talking about or need some instruction on how to do what I mentioned do a search first, all these things have been discussed many times in the past.
1. didn't grease the slides properly
2. didn't have the rotors turned or they did a poor job of it, also make sure they micrometer the discs to make sure they are not too thin.
3. brake pads are not seated properly or you did not "burn" them in properly, also make sure you have the return springs on, if not Mazda sells them pretty cheap
4. One caliper is bad and is not putting proper pressure on the pad
5. you did not bleed to brakes properly (you should bleed the brakes every time you change pads)
All of those things can cause one side to pull. you need to check them all and if you don't know what I'm talking about or need some instruction on how to do what I mentioned do a search first, all these things have been discussed many times in the past.

ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- neutral
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$80 for a 4-whl alignment is decent price here too. My experience w/frt. bearing going bad is that it usually "shimmies" when brakes are applied -mostly from higher speeds. Can pull a bit to one side as well. You can check the front bearings without taking the wheels off. Raise the front onto jackstands. Grab each wheel at the top and bottom of the tire with a twisting-pulling/pushing motion and see if there is noticeable play in the wheel. If so, a bearing is most likely wearing out.
p.s. have also seen a bad pull because of broken motor mount(s) but seem to recall that was noticeable mainly when accelerating? Can't remember for sure tho would recognize the symptom if it happened again. fwiw.
p.s. have also seen a bad pull because of broken motor mount(s) but seem to recall that was noticeable mainly when accelerating? Can't remember for sure tho would recognize the symptom if it happened again. fwiw.

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hehe your brake rotors seem to be in a really bad need of a turning. Also that price for alignemt is ok. Yesterday I payed 59 dllrs for alignment 6 months warranty. ALso had my brakes inspected.. rotors are thin beyond spek. But yeah i advice you look into that. Cant be anything else since it only happens when you brake.
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
- bmwm3guy
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is your car lowered? YES you got it aligned but did you go see the computer screen to see if it was ACTAULLY aligned?
Mine was just aligned but the camber was slightly more off on one side than the other. My car pulls a TIDBIT on the highway as well. My car is lowered and this is why the camber was fux0r3d a lil bit
Mine was just aligned but the camber was slightly more off on one side than the other. My car pulls a TIDBIT on the highway as well. My car is lowered and this is why the camber was fux0r3d a lil bit
- neutral
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Then it's worth checking the motor mounts and bearing-play at least to rule those possible causes out. Costs nothing to ck both of those areas yourself.
A bad mount, especially two bad ones, can FUBAR your steering. I had it happen to a Yota and drove me nuts checking suspension suspect parts and not finding the prob that way. Alignment would never detect that either since the car is aligned sitting still. Have you asked the shop that did the alignment to go on a test drive with you to see/feel the prob?
A bad mount, especially two bad ones, can FUBAR your steering. I had it happen to a Yota and drove me nuts checking suspension suspect parts and not finding the prob that way. Alignment would never detect that either since the car is aligned sitting still. Have you asked the shop that did the alignment to go on a test drive with you to see/feel the prob?
