downshift into 1st
- SE-Man
- Regular Member
- Posts: 487
- Joined: July 16th, 2001, 2:01 am
- Location: Port Orchard/WA/USA
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Re: downshift into 1st
their is no actual "lock" I was explained that it is the way the gears work. I've tryed it, move your stick into first from 30mph, try it slow then try it fast and forceful, you'll see the differace, I can. When i do it slow it makes a grinding sound and I'll bend the shifter (actually broke my shift knob that way)before it will go into gear, but when I do it forceful and fast theirs no grinding jsut like the guys were telling me to (some even work as techs for mazda), i'll feel a lil thump as it goes into gear. But i've noticed on cars as well, before 1990 you don't find this problem in shifting into first, only on the newer cars, I do know for a fact Jeep dose this, they even have a tranny that will throw the shifter out of gear it the RPMS are to high for that gear.
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- Regular Member
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- Joined: November 4th, 2003, 2:01 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Re: downshift into 1st
Yeah I just got home from work and on the way there and back I tried forcing the shifter like SE-Man suggested and it does work quite well. Just a little weird because it goes against anything most people are taught about shifting. Thanks SE-Man... it's a nice change to be able to shoot out of the slower corners with such great acceleration now.
Re: downshift into 1st
The gears are always in mesh. To bring a particular gear into use, it has to be dogged to a shaft. The grinding noise you can hear is the dogs trying to get into "mesh", but failing because the synchro cone which is supposed to clutch it in, i.e. bring it into synchronism (same speed) isn't working. The cone relies on friction to do it's job.
This is where some of the more carefully formulated synthetic oils score. They are better at providing enough lubrication to reduce wear on the bearings and mating surfaces, but don't provide so much that the synchro cones fail to grip. Its a balancing act.
If the cone is not pressed against the mating component with sufficient force, again it won't grip. That's why a good hard push is helping to engage first. The synchro is doing its job - but it will wear out eventually. And all that torque brought into action, when first is clutched in, is going to stress the rest of the transmission, so be prepared for earlier failure in the drive train.
<small>[ March 31, 2004, 12:12 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
This is where some of the more carefully formulated synthetic oils score. They are better at providing enough lubrication to reduce wear on the bearings and mating surfaces, but don't provide so much that the synchro cones fail to grip. Its a balancing act.
If the cone is not pressed against the mating component with sufficient force, again it won't grip. That's why a good hard push is helping to engage first. The synchro is doing its job - but it will wear out eventually. And all that torque brought into action, when first is clutched in, is going to stress the rest of the transmission, so be prepared for earlier failure in the drive train.
<small>[ March 31, 2004, 12:12 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
Re-shaped and re-sized gearshift lever. Best driveability mod you can do!
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
