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I have 4 struts and 2 (rear) springs. No top mounts available since they're in use. I can bring to Toronto on business trip. $50. E-mail if interested: dpimotorsports_at_yahoo.ca

The socket at the end of the two shift rods is a press fit over the ball/pivot assembly at the base of the shifter. It is held by two rubber keys. If there is excess wear or one of the keys has dried up and fallen apart, the shifter drops down 0.5 to 1" and becomes very stiff to operate. Try pulling ...

I'm moving and I don't want to move this stuff. From a 93 MX-3, everything from the B pillar rearwards - rear seat, trunk liner, trunk cover, speakers, hatch trim, seat belts; plus OEM exhaust (excluding cat), OEM air intake and space saver spare. Interior colour is bluish turquoise, to go with ...

The correct setting is 10 degrees Before TDC, with the jumper inserted in the diagnostic block. There's a "10" on the scale on the timing belt cover.

Could that smoke have a blue tint? What you describe is typical of worn valve guides. When they heat up, they expand, thereby sealing off the leak. Have you tested compression to isolate the problem?

Your oil leaks could well be the main seals. The front one is pretty easy, especially if you're going in anyway to change the belt and water pump gasket. The rear one, of course, requires you to remove the transaxle. Sounds harder than it is, but you'll need a friend. Your valve cover gasket may ...

I suggest you take the time to verify that the timing belt is correctly installed. Put it wrong by one cog and that's what you'll get - for a while. Of course the plug wires and timing must be correct too.

You're right, of course. Sorry about the confusion.

What do the spark plugs look like? Maybe you have a fuel pressure regulation problem, not an ignition problem. Have you gone down this road?

It could be the distributor cap, if it's broken. Have you attempted to read codes?

Even if the camshaft position sensor is faulty, the engine will still run, so it shouldn't be that.

Are all ground straps properly installed between the engine block and the frame?

Have a look at this, at pages B-83-85
http://mx-3.com/95manual/

There are 3 temp sensors. Did you replace the one under the intake manifold. It feeds the ECU and is critical once the engine is hot. EGR input would make the intake hotter, so it sounds related. But read codes first.

You didn't mention checking the ignition coil. Have you?

I suggest you disconnect the Idle Speed Control Valve electrical connector, to see whether it has any effect. If it's faulty, the idle may stabilize at the default level for 68 deg F with it disconnected. If it's not faulty, your problem lies elsewhere. Does the problem persist if you put the car in ...

The gauge sensor mounts to the cylinder head - a single wire. The fan sensor mounts to the thermostat housing - a single wire. The ECU thermo sensor mounts to the intake manifold - a 2-wire sensor. Your problem sounds like a sticking thermostat - it's not opening at 180 deg, but more like 200 deg F ...

With some carefully chosen tools and some courage, you can do more than you think you can. Someone else will still do the valve work, but not the disassembly/reassembly - saving you a 2-3 hours of labour minimum. We all started somewhere.