MX-3.com

Will any of these work?

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php ... d60820a70e

Thanks

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php ... d60820a70e

that is the one you want. You will need to talk to Lex about customizing it for your application.

Thanks for the quick response! What needs to be customized exactly? I emailed the company today asking which product I needed and if my car is supported.

There are a few settings that differ I think between the various B series engines. The B6, B8 and BP are all essentially the same but are offered in different cars with different ignition types and so on. They use the same basic PnP unit for all of them so they will just need to know what your application is and what you plan to do, i.e. turbo, nitrous...whatever.

Awesome, so with this plug n play kit it is a direct replacment of the current ecu correct?

Will anything else need to be done besides tuning and plugging it in? In my current car I just have a dongle attachment to the OBDII that I can store a tune on (Hondata Flashpro) that reflashes my stock ecu

Also, will I retain all my functions like A/C ect.

If you're just getting rid of the existing ECU so that you can control the fuel it's pretty easy.

If you want to accurately set the air/fuel ratios you will need a wideband O2 sensor. If you want to get rid of the VAF you will need an intake air temp sensor becasue our IAT is in the VAF.

Then you will probably need some help tuning it. For me with a V6 I figured it would be about a $800-1000 deal with wideband and IAT and a couple of new gauges. It's probably about the same for the 4cyl.

If you want to get more involved than that it gets a bit more complex.

SuperchargedK20Z3 wrote:Thanks for the quick response! What needs to be customized exactly? I emailed the company today asking which product I needed and if my car is supported.

Hi there, we received the request and built a kit specifically for the 94-95 B6D DOHC motor as there are differences from the SOHC and K8 versions.

You can find the link here for the fully assembled unit: http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php ... cts_id=207

Or here for the unit that is assembled but just requires the jumpers to made to your OEM harness (listed in the table):
http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php ... cts_id=202

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Thank you Stratified for the awesome quick response and getting that added to your page!! VERY IMPRESSIVE!!

A question to you wytbishop...

"If you want to get rid of the VAF you will need an intake air temp sensor becasue our IAT is in the VAF."

What would I need to do that for? I plan to do a mild turbo set up only trying to get 180-200whp

Would the base map provided by stratified run the car with the boost fine until I get tuned?

Thank you!

The stock engine measures the amount of air coming into the intake using an air flow meter which is in the intake tube after the air filter. In the case of the Mazda K series of engines it's a Vane Air Flow meter or VAF. In the stock K8 the sensor which measures the temperature of the intake air, the IAT sensor, is also in the VAF.

The MegaSquirt ECU has a barometric pressure sensor which allows it to compute the amount of air going into the engine without the VAF by sensing the pressure in the intake manifold, but it also needs to know the temperature of the air so if you remove the VAF you have to install a separate IAT sensor. People who do this usually use the standard GM IAT which the guys at Stratified will sell you. I think it's about $175.

If you are going to turbo the engine this is more or less a requirement because there will be too much air going in for the stock VAF to measure accurately. At a certain point the VAF would actually restrict the amount of air you could force into the intake and you'll start pressurizing the intercooler...and possibly just blow your cold piping all apart.

YEs the base map should run the engine just fine but a wideband O2 sensor is also more or less mandatory if you want to tune your turbo'd engine properly. I'm not an expert on the B6 and turbos but I'm thinking if you want 180-200hp you'll need something like 8-10psi of boost. At that pressure you might be pushing the stock injectors and fuel pump. There are lots and lots of boosted B6 worklogs here and on clubprotege.com. You should start reading what other people have done.

So what you are saying is the tuning done by MAP correct in conjunction with the IAT?

Also I already have 360cc Injectors ready to install once I do the setup and a upgraded Walbro Fuel Pump so that shouldn't be an issue. I'm glad you stated 8-10psi as that is what I was shooting for on stock internals and was hoping to be around 180-200hp

Now I am just figuring out what clutch to go with since I'm sure the stock clutch will go out pretty quickly.

Tuning is essentially getting the A/F ratio consistant at all engine speeds. So it's really setting the fuel map to inject the correct amount of fuel for the measured air in the intake at every RPM interval in the table.

The MS ECU uses barometric pressure and temperature and a little thing called the Ideal Gas Law to calculate the mass of air in the intake at any given moment.

Keep in mind my numbers for boost and output are just a guess. but if the engine is making 105hp stock and you add 10psi (which is about 60% of an atmosphere) you should be adding about 60% more power...minus whatever you lose in the intercooler. So probably your goingto be closer to 160hp. But I don't really know what guys are actually getting with their turbo setups.

As for clutch...my personal opinion is if you are increasing the hp substantially you have to decide what you want to break. If you choose a super stiff clutch, when you launch hard all that stress goes to the tranny and it will break. If you choose a lighter clutch, the clutch will slip. You won't be able to launch as hard but you also won't have to find a new tranny ever couple of months.

I completely understand what you are saying! That is exactly why I don't want to get a big beefy clutch. I don't run a beefy clutch on my Supercharged 07 Civic Si either. Actually still on stock clutch but plan to get a Stage 1 or 2 clutch that is right at my 300whp/200lbs that I am putting out

So many people go with a beefy clutch and that will kill the tranny.

Thanks for the help you have made this all much easier