I don't know what you mean 'crank remover'. The only reason I'd remove a crank would be to do main bearings.

I have done a WP on a PGT with the timing belt still intact.

In all honesty, its cake to do a timing belt too. If you have to remove it to do a good job, do it. Its not hard at all to do.

Step 1. remove the two 12mm bolts holding in the tensioner.
Step 2. remove the belt and do your thing.
Step 3. Take the tensioner over to a bench vice. Wedge it in. Press, slowly increasing pressure until it compresses. When it moves, you'll notice it moves in little.. bounces? Little by little, kinda like picking up hydraulic slack, which is pretty much what its doing. Do not just crank it closed. Use as little pressure as possible.
Step 4. when its getting close to almost fully depressed, find the biggest allen wrench you can that fits in the lower hole. as you compress it more, keep trying to slide the wrench in until it goes. Put it in only as far as it needs to be to catch comfortably on the far side of the casing. Take it out of the vice.
Step 5. Set up the timing belt. Line the crank up(notch in crank gear 12:00), and line up the marks on the cams to the bumps on the VC's. The marks are marked with yellow dots on the cam gears. Put the belt on.
Step 6. Push the tensioner pulley where it should be, and check everything is still lined up. Install the tensioner, and check again that everything is still correct, hasn't slipped, etc.
Step 7. Say a little prayer and let the tensioner go using a pair of pliers.
Step 8. Rotate the crank 2x. Make sure it all still lines up, not even one tooth out.
Step 9. If it does, congrats. If it doesn't, go back to step 1!


And about the crank pulley, I just put my 3/4 inch ratchet(w/21mm) on the crank bolt and tap the starter. Works if your battery is charged. If you have something stronger than a ratchet that fits, use it.(breaker bar)

Alright I think I may try this now, I can probably do it fairly easily. By crank I did mean the pulley, and the last time I also just tapped the starter, but I can't exactly remember how I got it back on Thanks for all the tips and advice guys

In gear, with the brakes on, with a torque wrench, or an impact. 200ftlbs.

I put the crank pulley back on with an electric impact gun last time, you get this fixed yet?

Use permatex black on the water pump. Let it sit overnight before you fill it with coolant

So this is all fixed as far as I know, I went in and found the drive belt to be almost off of the water pump pulley, which explained the loss of power steering (which reappeared after I put the belt back on). I think it may explain the loss of rad fluid as well, as the waterpump was not being spun by the belt and was therefore just pumping rad onto the ground. Does that make sense?

this makes sense to me

Glad you figured it out and it was easy.