Here's the start of it.

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44416

Its 14 pages long but since I'm more active on hereately(still not as much as over there) I'll start posting here throghout the swap prosess.

Ok was making some observations of the milli motor and the mx3 one. On the coolant spout buy the filler cap on the milli motor there's nothing
but on the k8 there's a sensor
. What's it for? Will I need to swap over that coolant neck???Also on the k8 you see a connector by the filler cap with a wire that goes down to the middle of the block. I think its the knock sensor. The milli motor doesn't have the wire or connector bit looks like there's a knock sensor under that the coolant pipe in the middle of the block between the intake ports. Am I going to have to put the k8 1 on the milli motor?

Made a mistake in the 2nd post. This is the pic of the millenia motor

I have 2 mx3s both 93/94 models, neither of them required the extra sensor. However yours may do depending on the loom/ecu/year, as some have found out after dropping in. I just swapped it for the k8 one and have the extra one, as it transpired I didn't need it.

The knock sensor connector on the k8 comes out the opposite side to the millenia, just untangle the wire and make it sit on the other side (timing belt side).

Regaurding the knosck sensor- I can see the sensor on the milli motor but there's no wire coming off of it. I'll just swap it with tjhe k8 one. Looks like a pain to get to. I'm use to BP stuff and that motor is so simple compared to the kl. Or am I thinking that because I'm not use to them yet? Lol

hmm perhaps the wires on the millenia broke off, wouldn't be a first! Yea there's that annoyingly positioned coolant pipe going over the top of the knock sensor, but your engines out, so get stuck in Haha you'll get used to it, but damn, sometimes I envy i4 simplicity!

Finally got some work done. Removed the trans,alt,ps and pass motor mount off.







Yea I know my swap is taking forever but I have 3 kids,big mortgage and work 70+hrs a week. Time is very limited.

Pretty much all I have to do is sand/wire wheel a bunch of rusty a-- parts and get a rad,rx7 ball joints,front and rear mounts(got a lead on a front) and axles. Still need to degrease the motor,regasket and hoses. After the motor is in and running I'll have a bunch of parts to sell including a complete bp swap with 626 5th gear and manual 323 rack

More differences but still not a problem. While trying to figure out if I'm going to buy headers before doing the swap or not, I weighed my options. I figure I can run the K8 exhaust manifolds for now temporarily. Right now I want it in and rolling under its own power and be reliable. I will of course drop a dime on some FI or at least try to squees as much n/a hp/tq as I can within a budget.

The millenia egr tube goes up into the manifold and the k8 doesn't .



Look at the block off plate that comes from the factory . I'll transfer the egr setup from the K8 because the probe kl is setup the same way. The aftermarket headers I was looking at had the egr pipe set up in the same location and angle.

the 3rd and 4th pics show the K8 location



This post is just bookmarks for the differences found.


Also was reading up on replacing the knock sensor and seeing(1st hand from getting to it on the K8) that there's a 2nd location you can put it where it's so much easier to get to. Any mx3 guys confirm with that location as being right?

Well that plug was a coolant drain plug. Damn s--- went everywhere lol. Oh well. Live and learn.

Ok. No updates just documenting. Hit the jy yesterday looking for rads. Tried a fc rx7 one....scratch that idea. Didn't see any sciroccos but did see a bunch of mk1 and mk2 golfs/jettas. They're basically like [dan sac]'s and deeAone's rad but the inlet/outlets are on the oposite side. This worked perfect in the pros rad support hole and I may be able to get away with runing a probe top hose. We'll see. The bottom will just have to get a 90* hose to a pipe then run along the rad to another 90* hose and run that to the other inlet of the kl. They're really fkn small but the stock rad on them is(I'm guessing) 2" thick so there will be plenty of cooling. Also just serched ebay and they have the all aluminum models for the mk2 so upgrading later,if I go FI, won't be hard.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45MM-2ROW-VW-GOLF-16V-MK2-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a591bfc9eQQitemZ250603109534QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The pic they have there, the rad is upside down. Also note the fan sensor location on the opposite side of the inlet/outlets . Going to install an aftermarket fan control switch so this is perfect.

Rad dimentions;

Overall Size :523(21.3) X 322(13.1) X60(2.45) mm
Core Size:430(17.5) X 309(12,6 X 45(1. mm

:35mm (inlet/outlet 2.45)

Many updates. Hit the jackpot at the jy. Brand new probe front trans mount and 1 sets ofmilli S injectors. Sold one on ebay and traded one set for a klde exedy clutch and pp.

Not much to report. Got the. New kl01 ecu and kl02 vaf



And got 1 of the vc painted. Not exactly how I wanted it but it came out ok

Just wanted to show off the new bling lol. Vc crome bolt ring gaskets. Now I'm thinking a ms oil cap is in order. I also finished the other vc.



Also got the oil pan and exhaust manifolds off the k8. I'll be using these till I can get a set of headers

[/quote]

Not quite a coolant drain, its the location for a block heater. I swapped in the one from my K8 to my KLZE and it fit right in.

nice VC btw!