The linkage is clean and I'm trying to source the right bolt for the 3rd link. I forgot how much fun this was last time... I had to drill the smaller hole on the bracket out to accommodate the standard bolt. That swaged bolt is ridiculous, whoever planned the use of non-serviceable bushings there definitely didn't put enough thought into that area. Matching the bolt is a PITA all it's own, it's easier to modify the bracket.

Anyways, I picked up an exhaust stud kit for the '93, and will be putting the stock exhaust back on to make it legal while I plan the duals. Looks like I'll be bolting it back on in the rain, go me!

The linkage is back on, but I'm waiting on more hardware for the exhaust. Still waiting on a few things actually... Shipping shouldn't take this long.

Needing to take off the IM and fix a coolant leak, car will be cleaned really well and photographed after she's back on the road again. I figured out what appears to be the final issue though, so fingers crossed!

Millenia Coolant Piping: Take note of the red circles. The left is a little V that splits off in 2 directions, meeting at the lower coolant pipe that connects with the radiator on the driver side of the bay. BOTH lines go to the same pipe, which leads me to the belief that this V is extraneous. The right circle is where a coolant "nipple" should be located, but is not.


DE Coolant Piping: Look at the red circles again. The left is where the V from the previous image is NOT present. The right is the nipple I spoke of previously. Does anybody know where this nipple typically connects on the DE?


All this to figure out a "simple" coolant leak. It's a good thing I love my MX-3s.
At this point, I'm planning to clean up the DE piping, interior and exterior, and replace the Milli with it. Bonus, the DE has 2 coolant sensors tapped into place already, so I won't need to mess with that down the road either.

AAAAHHHH!!!!

Finally I pulled enough crap out of there to spot the exact issue. Ryan pointed out that I had an extra fuel line sitting there, unused... He noticed the banjo bolt. Well the fuel filter was connected at a different point, bypassing the original line, so it just sat there, unused... The other is for the outgoing coolant line on the TB.

Can anybody show me EXACTLY where the OUTGOING coolant line on the KL47 Throttle Body connects to? On the K8 it's the right cylinder head, but that area isn't tapped on the Millenia. I have no basis for comparison, other than the K8.

You're not stock anymore, quit trying to make it stock.

There's a neep on the rear head, and a neep on the neck you've got pictured there. You need coolant to flow from neck to EGR, from EGR to TB, from TB to block. (so EGR heats BAC valve so you can idle sooner)

because block is the inlet to the pump, and the neck is the outlet from the pump.

Unless I'm backwards. Then I'm backwards.

Edit, I am backwards.

Block to EGR, EGR to TB, TB to neck.

I didn't have any other way to compare it, unfortunately.

The nipple from the rear head is connected to the TB(that's incoming), the other one is the outgoing line, which I need to find a home for.

That is my exact thinking with swapping the piping over, since the one in the car doesn't have that nipple... I don't know where the hell it was hooked up before, as there isn't ANYTHING I can attach it to in the car.

Damn you EGR!!!

The pipe in the car right now is just weird. The little V I showed loops back to itself, basically. It's completely, utterly pointless. s--- that serves no purpose needs to go bye bye, no?

I just need to clean up the other pipe, pull the IM, and swap it over. Then I plan to run the TB coolant line(outgoing) to the nipple I pictured. From what I can tell, that's what you were suggesting, correct?

Thanks Ryan.

This isn't right. head to EGR inlet, EGR outlet to TB inlet, TB outlet to what would be your missing lower nipple. (a return to waterpump)



If you're saying the rear head isn't a coolant tap on the Milli engine, then that V is probably a 'feed' and you should connect your TB/EGR loop there.


I don't know what the line off of that "V"... the one that goes down to a hard line on the block, what does that go to?

I think you're right about the EGR feeding the TB. That was me trying to peak around the IM and failing miserably. Hard as this is with the manifold on, it'd be that much worse without it. -.-

As for the looped "V" connection... This is the best I can really do: The "V" I showed in my previous picture links to another "V", which is attached to the back of the lower coolant pipe. It doesn't feed into it that pipe, just wraps around it. The thing literally loops back into itself.


PM replied.

On the previous engine that may have been a component that was removed, or was looped when put into this car by a PO or whatever. Could have been an oil cooler return.

It doesn't really matter, as long as you can find out which of the neeps on the DS hub there are feed and return you should be able to figure it out.

You asked, "The right is the nipple I spoke of previously. Does anybody know where this nipple typically connects on the DE?" That nipple goes to the EGR. Oh and thanks for asking about the hardest line to follow on a DE.

Sorry I'm busy here but if you have another question I can check my DE for you,,or my other two ZE's.

Small update.

The coolant piping is swapped out, and the leak is 100% resolved.

Next on the list...
1) Clean up and rewire the external coil.
2) Swap Intrax springs for stock, new front upper mounts while I'm at it.
3) New shifter surround and stereo trim. I need to do a junkyard run...
4) Spark Plugs

Farther down the road:
1) Replace the FUBAR'd front bumper
2) CHEAP paintjob, possibly MoonWax? Mark, what do you think?

It would be cheap and you will be the 3rd mx-3 in oregon that has come over to the Moon side.

Well, I'm definitely considering it... Would you be willing to help me the first time around?

How often do you redo it anyways, yearly or so?

I say you go with a white primer and be different! you can get red even blue primer

And if you use a primer sealer or a sealer on top of your primer it will last a lot longer