yay i have turn signals again.... was a severly corroded license plate light.

Yah you can remove the disty coil, but theres really no point in it other then shaving maybe 1lb. cause once you have the coil unplugged n the external wired, your internal gets 0 power. if u cut the rod on the cap and fill the dots with silicone its finished. did this to mine and it works PERFECT. starts up like a old sbc.

i'm tempted to do this today. but i've got some exhaust to weld into my brothers pt cruiser.

we will see how the day goes....i'll have to look at the hei wiring diagrams again.

Its very simple man, but you gotta take your time and do it the right way. solder all the wires and shrink wrap over them.

i'm gonna wire up just the module for today, i cant find my coil or the bracketry to hold it on lol.

i'm shocked how much voltage issue the plate light was causing, my voltage seems a lot steadier at about 14.1-14.2 all the time.

ok so a couple quick questions while i wire the harness off the car. if i'm using the stock coil do still need a resistor for the tach?

and technically i dont need to touch the stock coil until i wire in the external coil correct.

Nope you do not untill you wire up the coil. and correct.

ok so its all wired in but i'm not sure if its working lol. the only thing that made me think it was working was that it wouldnt start when i reversed a couple of the trigger wires, once i switched them back it started right up. feels a lot smoother but it could all be in my head.

i'm tempted to just straight solder the connections at the disty instead of tapping into the wires. just cut and wire straight to the hei module. thoughts?

so its wired up correctly, thanks for that link! groharlems original diagram is wrong!!! lol it says use the solid orange on the 3 pin disty but there isnt a orange wire lol.

so it definitely feels a lot better and i cant wait for the weekend to wire in the external coil. overall i would say it just provides a more consistent spark that just makes it pull so much smoother that it feels more powerful. i also bumped the timing a bit more, really gotta put a light to it and find out just how much it is advanced now. originally bumped it to 11 degrees. now i'm not sure.

loaded up my alternator today after the hei install(which apparently pulls about 5 amps). ran about 65-70% to the amp, lights on, fan on 3(i never turn it on full), and it sat steady at 14.0 volts. threw the defrost on for good measure and it sat steady at 13.8 bass pumping.

threw some blue tubing on the engine bay in an attempt to clean it up a bit.

i still have a bit of dimming when the bass is really hitting, but i noticed it improved after i wired in the hei module.i did make the mistake of tapping in to close the the disty plugs.

i'm gonna wire in another cap for now but i will be adding a power cell by kinetik before the winter.

big news is that i may be getting an amazing free addition to my audio set up that will really free up some space in the trunk......colins old custom box....:)


my buddy picked up colins old car and has been completely rebuilding it from the ground up, sandblasted the whole car , por15 complete under body/suspension/ floorpan, rebuilt the motor and added colt cams...its almost done and he hopes to have it up and running before the winter hits.

wts: wire management that engine bay needs some lovin good sir!

your telling me lol.....

that sub is SEXY!!!!!!!!!! i would love to have something like that, but yeah i made the mistake of tapping near the wires as well

and i also just want to get clarity on the diag mode procedure....
1.start car.
2. after warming to operating temp jump ten and ground.
3. adjust timing.
4.remove jumper, THEN shut car off.

or should it be shut car off THEN remove jumper?