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 BP swap journal **UPDATED*** 
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Joined: December 31 2002, 3:01 AM
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Location: Bowmanville
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Post BP swap journal **UPDATED***
Happy happy joy joy!!!

1. Purge fuel from system (run engine then disconnect the fuel pump - engine will stall. Then try and start it a few times to get as much gas out of the system as possible)
2. drain oil
3. drain coolant
4. remove battery
5. remove intake tubing and MAF vaf whatever
6. disconnect and label every electrical connection to the engine
7. disconnect all air hoses from intake and label which side he was disconnected from
8. Disconnect fuel lines and label which one is return and which one goes to the injectors
9. disconnect coolant hoses (2 on the back and 2 on the front)
10. remove three bolts from starter motor. Remove bolt going to the intake support bar. Remove intake support bar. Disconnect wires and connectors on starter and label. the starter will have to be removed through the top on the passenger side with some fancy turning and rotating. but it will come out
11. Remove power steering pump. Easiest way was to unbolt the three bolts going to the engine block. Removing belt, then hanging pump on the top rad support. Don't need to disconnect the hoses and things.
12.Remove alternator and all pulleys. Get an impact wrench. It's a life saver. Yes even the crank pulley (you will love the extra 2inches of play when lifting the engine)
13. Undo all transmission bolts except the top two main bolts (4 bolts at bottom, and three on the sides)
14. Place jack underneath engine with a peice of wood on it and lift the engine to take the weight of the motor mount(passenger side)
15. Place engine lift onto engine and secure. Put some tension on the lift, so it is ready to lift when ready.
16. remove bolt that goes through motor mount. Take of the two nuts on the mount. Remove circular part of mount. Engine shouldn't move.
17. Remove last two bolts on the transmission.
18. Push apart engine from transmission. If it doesn't go easy - then you forgot a bolt somewhere. always double check!!!
19. now just lift the engine up and rotate slowly so it will clear the clutch assembly without smoking it on the top of the transmission.
20. Now just lift!!!! Probably one of the best parts of the swap!!! YOU JUST REMOVED AN ENGINE IN YOUR DRIVEWAY!!!!!
21. Now with the engines side by side check for differences.
22. My distributor was the exact same thing - plug and everything with the new BP
23. all the sensors are pretty much in the same place or close to on the block.
24. The injector harness is slightly different. One, there is VICS connector you have to run wires for it to the ecu. The injector plugs are the same just in slightly difference places, along with the green temperature sensor plug (it's on the drivers side of the head, not on top of the intake plenum.)
I just placed the BP harness next to the B6 harness and tried to make my harness look like the BP. Removed the tape, ran the new VICS wires, and moved the other wires around so they fit. Then taped it up and put it back in the plastic runner protector.
25. Do all your tune-up stuff now that the engine is out. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat, PCV, and more. Can't remember.......getting sleepy........
26. Modified injector harness to include the VICS and the moved temperature sensor. Put Harness on, fits no problem
27. try and drop engine in. Doesn't fit
28. Try it at an angle. Doesn't fit.
29. Recommend to anyone doing this to remove the transmission too.
30. Remove all pulleys and mounting plates and oil pan
31. Fit's with some creativity!!!!!
32. Can't beleive it's in - quickly mount the sucker!!!!
33. Put upper tranny bolts in (the 17mm ones)
34. Put Passenger side mount on.
35. Put oil pan back on.
36. Start putting stuff back together
37. Put starter back on and wire it up with harness
38. Plug everything back in. There are two ground wires on the front of the mx engine that need to be put into a connector and grounded on another place on the engine. But everything else should fit no problem.
39. Swap pulley from alternator to alternator. Dang pully stuck. Gonna half to go get a pulley puller
40. Got pulley off with puller no problem
41. Attach alternator, power steering pump, crank pully, water pump pulley, then put on belts and tighted.
43. Make sure every electrical connection is accounted for and all air, fuel and coolant tubes are attached. Put battery back in and put on air intake.
44. Run VICS wires into vehicle
45. Remove old ECU. Remove the three bolts, and loosen the fourth and remove. Remove Relay from ecu and let hang there. Detach harness
46. Bolt in new ECU. Attach harness. mount relay to new ECU. Don't know what to do with VICS wires yet so just leave em for now.
47. Get ready to START THE ENGINE!!!! remove all tools rags and whatever away from engine
48. START!! and Voila you have a loud but running engine that kicks a**!!
49. Now if you got an exhaust manifold that has an oxegen sensor hole to put the sensor in - then cheers. You just need to custom fit you down pipe and your done. If your me and got a manifold that doesn't have the oxegen hole, then you got to make one on your downpipe, then custom fit it to the manifold.
50. Something wrong with the o2 sensor system. Think I got some wiring wrong. getting a CEL code of 15. Hmmm, gonna check with the protege forum to see if they have a clue. Back to checking for wiring diagrams. Don't know what kinda oxegen sensor the Protege has? (1994 1.8L DOHC)
51. Well I found out that:
the 1994 1.8L DOHC Protege has -> single wire o2 sensor on the manifold, aswell as a four wire after the pre-cat.
the 1993 1.8L DOHC Protege has -> just the single wire o2 sensor on the manifold or the downpipe.
51. So I got a new single wire o2 sensor and I haven't thrown a code to the computer yet!! Ya I got my gas mileage back!!!
52. Now for V.I.C.S. The guys at had all the answers.

Run the Blue/Orange wire from the VICS connector to the ECU. It plugs into the big 26 pin plug at the ECU. It is pin 4 from the left on the top row. Because the pin is blank in the mx-3 sohc, I got another 26 pin plug from a mx-6 and pulled the little connector out, soldered it to the vics wire then plugged it into the mx-3 plug. And voila first wire done.
The second wire is White/Red, and can be run to the ECU (just tap into the white/red wire on the smaller ECU plug. It's the only one of that colour). Or can be tapped into the white/red wire in the injector harness.
That's it. VICS will now work.
53. Now I just got to figure out what I want to do with the intake. Ian at Tool Tyme is trying to get me some universal bend intake tubing, so I can make an intake that doesn't include zip ties.

Got a whole bunch of pics posted on page 9 of my cardomain site.
Typhoonk Car Domain Page

<small>[ September 15, 2004, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: Typhoonk ]</small>

Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info

September 06 2004, 2:52 PM
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Joined: December 31 2002, 3:01 AM
Posts: 1138
Location: Bowmanville
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Post Re: BP swap journal **UPDATED***

Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info

September 10 2004, 12:16 AM
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Joined: December 31 2002, 3:01 AM
Posts: 1138
Location: Bowmanville
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Post Re: BP swap journal **UPDATED***
update. I drove around for the past couple of days without VICS working, and it kicked the little mx-3 engine's butt!!! So much more pull!!! I ran it on my little horse power meter (before I was getting like 50hp with the mx-3 sohc) and now I got a 94hp pull!!!
Now I got VICS working, and it's like I doubled the pull power!!! What a system!!!!
Can't wait to try the hp meter with VICS and my O2 sensor working!!!!

Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info

September 14 2004, 6:43 PM
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