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 turbo rebuild how to 
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Post turbo rebuild how to

I found this on

*NOTE* This "How-To-Do" is intended for a turbo unit with good wheels and shaft.
This repair kit only includes the internal bearings, clips, screws and seals.
If your compressor wheel is damaged, most likely your compressor housing will be too and may require some honing or even replacement.
You will also need a new compressor wheel which will cost more money.
Hopefully, your shaft and turbine wheel is not damaged, if it is, you may be better off just buying a good junkyard unit for $90-$150 and rebuilding that yourself if needed.

Order your RBH52 repair kit from part # 310-700. It costs $128.92 plus shipping and tax if you live in California.
You don't have to order from them, if you have competent turbo shops in your area, by all means support your local economy I did.
I drove a 200 miles roundtrip to get my repair kit and wheel(s)/shaft balanced.
[turbopimp on ebay sells the kit for about $80. But it might include less parts]

Ok, I'll start by assuming you have already removed your IHI turbo from the car and have separated it from the exhaust manifold and 02 sensor housing [exhaust elbow, this is a PGT writeup]. By the way, that was the hard part, the rest should be cake.
But before starting, it would be a good idea to read the included full set of intructions first and familiarized yourself with the names of the different parts and which order they go.

Tools you will need:
star bit, T-10
2mm allen wrench
snap ring pliers (with very tiny and long tips)
open/box end- 8, 10, & 13mm
2 flat tip screw drivers
liquid wrench is a must


1. Before disassembling the turbo, mark the intake and turbine housings at the 12 o'clock position where they line up with the oil inlet nipple on the center housing.
Use a pointed punch and hammer to mark an index so upon reassembly, you will remember where to line them up.

2. Spray liquid wrench on all the bolts and on the slip-joint on the turbine and center housings.
Then remove the turbine housing first by unbolting the 4 bolts.
With a hammer, gently tap the turbine housing equally on all sides to separate it from the center housing.

3. Remove the compressor housing and wastegate actuator.

*NOTE* At this point, if you are not planning on getting the wheels and shalf rebalanced mark the intake and turbine wheels in conjuction with each other with a magic marker.
Please don't use a sharp object to mark the wheels..
HOWEVER, I highly recommend you get your wheel(s) shaft rebalanced for an extra $35.
Plus they clean the coked oil on the shaft and the carbon on the turbine wheel by bead blasting it..
Besides, you may erase your index marks when you attemp to clean these parts yourself.
Not to mention, there is no household or commercial solvent that will be able to dissolve and clean that coked oil from your shaft. Trust me, I tried

4. Remove the compressor wheel by holding the exhaust wheel nut with a 10mm box end and an 8mm on the intake wheel nut and give it a right hand turn (clockwise).
You can now pull the turbine wheel/shalf out by giving it a little tap. Please use the rubber handle of the hammer so not to damage the threads.
Then remove the turbine seal from the shaft.

5. Remove the seal plate from the center housing.
I simply used 2 of the 6 bolts from the compressor housing, screwed them into the 2 holes on the seal plate and used 2 flat tip screwdrivers to pry the bolts up the same time.

6. Remove the compressor seals (piston ring type) from the seal plate using your thumb, just push from the outside part of the seal inwards, it should pop right off.

7. Use your T-10 starbit to remove the 4 screws on the thrust bearing.
(*Note* if your turbo has been rebuilt before, it should have 2mm allen head screws instead of the starbit screws).

8. Pop out the mating ring and brass bearing.

9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the bearing clip on the turbine side of the housing and pop the brass bearing out.
Count the bearing clips on your kit to make sure you have all 3.
My kit happened to be short one clip but had 2 mating rings (I only need one).
So I had no choice but leave the inner bearing clip on the turbine side and re-use it.
BTW, that is the hardest clip to get out unless you have the proper tool for it.

10. Clean all parts to be re-used thoroughly.
*TIP* I used my K&N filter cleaner spray and soaked all the parts for 10-15 min, make sure you get the inner parts of the center cartridge and seal plate too.
Then rinse with boiling water... Better yet, throw them in a pot and boil 'em. Worked really good for me.
Is this where I say that I think Castrol Super Cleaner would work great?

*NOTE* Send in your turbine shaft for cleaning and rebalancing if needed.
It is highly recommended if you have a rebuilt unit that has gone bad prematurely.
That's a good sign of an imperfectly balanced wheel/shaft.
If you have an original factory unit, you can probably get away as long as you marked them good for reassembly...



Once again, make sure you read the included full set of instructions, I may have left out a few tid bits here and there.

1. Install the brass bearing and retainer clip(s) on the exhaust side of the center housing. The brass bearings are interchangeable so don't worry which one you use. Coat all parts with engine oil for assembly.

2. Install the other retainer clip, brass bearing on the intake side of the center housing. Then install the mating ring on top of the brass bearing making sure it's pointing the right direction (see the diagram). Coat all parts with engine oil for assembly.

3. Install the thrust bearing using the 4 new 2mm allen head screws.

4. Install the new piston and 2 rings on the seal plate.
Apply a generous amount of motor oil and with your thumb, give it a side to side wiggle while gently applying pressure and it should pop right in.

5. Install the seal plate using the 3 new screws.
Apply some gasket sealer on the seal plate to avoid leaks.
Make sure you don't use too much and block the oil passages underneath.

6. Install the new seal on the turbine shaft and coat both seal and shalf with motor oil.

7. Re-install turbine heat shield and insert turbine shaft.
Give it a gentle side to side while applying gentle pressure and the shaft should pop right in with the seal seated.

8. Re-install compressor wheel.
Align the balancing marks and give tighten the compressor wheel nut with a left hand turn applying 17.5 lb/in of torque.
*NOTE* The compressor wheel has the tendency to turn with the nut when you tighten it so to make sure your index marks are still lined up, you may have to play with it a few times to get it just right.
*At this time, if everything is seated right, the wheels should spin freely with no excessive play.

9. Re-install compressor housing first to protect the wheel from any damage.
Likewise, be careful not to damage your turbine wheel in the process.
Apply gasket sealer on the rim of the compressor housing to prevent boost leaks. I used Permatex hi-temp copper.
Make sure you re-align your index marks.

10. Re-install turbine housing. At this time, i would not recommend the use of a hammer.
Simply use the turbine housing clamps and tighten the 4 bolts down equally on all sides.
Check to make sure the wheel spins freely without any contact on both housings.

11. Re-install wastegate actuator. Don't forget the clip.

CONGRATULATIONS: You have just saved your self a ton of money.

Jason Danaher
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June 21 2004, 5:39 PM
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