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 Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough 
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Post Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
okay, I hope the spacing is correct because I wrote it offline in notepad. I will edit it later when I have more time as needed.

okay, here goes!

well, first the basics.

Bear with me, as I tend to go off on a tangent sometimes to explain stuff :)
also, I decided to not use too many caps. I guess you'll have to live with it. heh.

read through the whole walkthrough, and post any questions you may have before you take

your car apart!


the parts you have to accumulate:
1. ebay hot pipes(ford probe GT v6 kit) - they fit. I promise you.
2. second gen DSM bov and the pipe it bolts too.
3. if using k8 - get the 220cc injectors(more on the install later)
4. if using the klde or ze - get the 280cc millenia S injectors.
5. when installing the injectors, get a long reach 90 degree needle nose pliers
6. also get new seals for the injectors.
7. whe nyou purchase your injectors, check them when they are not installed with an ohm

meter(multimeter) and make sure that they are good. 220cc injectors read about 15ohms

+ or - 2ohms. any higher or lower and they are probably no good/junk. check the online

manual at mx-3.com for which wires to check.
8. you can use the 280cc injectors in the k8, but you will have really bad gas mileage I

hear.
9. when installing said injectors, make sure the plastic stands don't fall into the engine.
hold them in place with thick grease, or silicone, and when installing the rails, get

the stands into place with the long reach injectors.
10. be gentle with the harness going into the rails, they can be brittle.
11. also, REALLY watch the knock sensor wire. it is always dry and cracked, and if you are

not careful it will wreck it. maybe it would be a good idea to change it when you are

there? I don't know, but mine got wrecked when I installed the injectors, and it still

seems to run okay, but the cel(check engine light) is on now.
12. okay, the injectors part is done.
13. now back to getting parts....
14. you will need a aem uego(best for the price) wideband A/F gauge and sender/electronic

bit
15. also, get a boost gauge. one that reads vacuum and boost up to 25psi at least.
16. 10-15 feet of vacuum line and assorted T fittings and stuff like that. size depends on

what the nipple is on the back of the boost gauge, and bov, etc
17. wastegate. 38mm. some people have luck with the cheaper tial knock offs, but it is

better to go with the turbosmart one. it is cheaper than the tial types, but just a good.

make sure you get the 7psi spring too, because you can always turn it up with a boost

controller later.
18. next get a FMU. vortech 12:1 (I know, it isn't a very good fix for raising fuel

pressure under boost, and it can't be tuned much, but it will get you going until you can

get the Megasquirt and spark setup which is far better)
19. while your at it, get the 2 pod gauge pillar thing.
20. don't forget to buy gauges that are 2 1/16 because most popular pillar gauge pods

things come in that size.
21. when installing the FMU, run the line from the stock fuel pressure regulator to the

inlet on the fmu, and on the outlet, plug the hose that you pulled off the FPR into it.
22. I guess I will go into turbo selection now. well, that part is a science that you will

have to learn. I went with a t3/t4 hybrid. it seems to work well, but it has quite a bit of

lag. but that just means that I can drive around with no boost, and get good gas mileage.

but when I really mash the gas pedal, boost gets going quite nice!
23. when running the oil lines, there is a sender on the front of the engine on the

passenger side that has the oil panic light sender in it. just remove it(a pain) and

install a fitting and a Tee and run your oil line from there, and reinstall the sender.
24. on the fitting on the turbo end, get a restrictor for it. about 0.060"ish. any bigger,

and you may burst your seals so to speak.
25. for the oil drain line, get a oil safe hose at least 1/2" in inner diameter, and run it

from the bottom of the turbo into your oil pan...
26. oil pan bung... get a nipple fitting that fits inside the 1/2" line, and then remove

the oil pan, and get the fitting welded at a high point in the pan, away from any retateing

parts(rods, crank throws, etc)
27. hose clamp the drain line onto the oil pan when you get it all in place. since there is

no pressure here, hose clamps will be fine.
28. the oil pan is not too hard to remove with the engine in the car.
29. a quick note about turbo selection... internal wastegates won't fit. I tried, I built

an adapter so attach the internal wastegate the the down pipe, but it hit on the clutch

fork, and burnt my disty cap because it was too close.
30. also, another quick note about the ebay pipe flanges. the up pipe is a standard t3

rectangle flange, and the downpipe is the standard 5 bolt down pipe flange. that makes it

easy to find a compatible turbo.
31. here is the part that I am still working on, the fuel pump part.
32. I got a fuel pump from a turbo laser(DSM) flows 190lph which is plenty for lower boost

amounts(less than 8-9psi) it will be a bit os a hassle to get it installed, as you have to

fab up some wires and such, but that will be another faq later. atleast it is cheap! there

is lots of those around. I got mine for 30 dollars.
33. you could go with a walbro 190 or 255lph, but that is more expensive, and we are on a

budget here! but it would work though, for the record obviously :)
34. you will probably have to buy a t3 up-pipe flange gasket because it may not come in the

kit(mine didn't) but that is available from many parts stores.
35. did I mention a better clutch yet? well here goes. I bought a exedy clutch for my

atx-mtx swap, and it slips under boost. doouu. get at least the act one, or the unorthodox

one. good for at least 200 ft/tq or more.
36. now for the fun part. the actual install.
37. lets get the hard part out of the way first. the exhaust manifolds.
38. first go under the car and remove BOTH dust sheilds(much easier that way)
39. get a big breaker bar and remove the three bolts holding the stock downpipe to each

manifold. these almost always break, but that doesn't matter, because we aren't using any

of it anyway.
40. then just saw(sawsall) off the rear part just ahead of the catalytic converter(these

bolts never come off easy).
41. when that is out of the way, remove the front exhaust manifold cover(three 10mm wrench

bolts I think) and remove the manifold itself. most of the bolts are a pain in the butt to

remove, but it isn't impossible, just be patient.
42. next, the hardest part of the install. the rear exhaust manifold cover. grr. the only

way to do(easiest) it is to remove the passenger side vris stuff, and get some of the bolts

from the top, and some from the bottom. same goes for the actual manifold bolts too.the

cover bolts usually break, but that is okay, you know, we aren't using them anyway.
43. when the front manifold is off, it is time to follow step 23. it is easiest now because

the manifold is out of the way.
44. then install the back and front headers and gaskets. this part is pretty

straightforward and easy.
45. now it's time for the up pipe install. it goes in pretty easy, but you may have to

install 1(one) bolt at a time on each header to line up everything.
46. then it's turbo time. install the t3 flange gasket that you purchased in step 34. and

the turbo, and then snake up the downpipe from the bottom and attach it.
47. this is a good time to run those oil lines.
48. shoot, did I mention that you have to remove both crossmembers from the bottom of the

car? well do that before you do any header/manifold work.

*edit: I would have moved step 48 into the right place, but I didn't want to go through all

the step referrals all over again :) *

49. when you install your downpipe, just wire the remaining exhaust out of the way for

later muffler shop reconnection. you could do it yourself, but it may end up looking

butchered. and most local muffler shops will make it look pro, and only charge you about

$50-$60.
50. you will have to buy a cone style filter that fits over the turbo inlet. this depends

on which turbo you buy, so you will have to look around. just clamp it on the turbo inlet.
60. install the external wastegate now on the port on the up pipe. this is easy, just

follow the instructions that come with the wastegate, and in about 5-10 mins it will be

installed.
61. your turbo should have a vacuum/boost nipple on the outlet. put a short piece of vacuum

line on it, and then a four port Tee and run one spot to the wastegate, and one to your

BOV(more on the BOV later) and one into the car to the boost gauge. there is a place near

the master cylinder behind the battery(USDM cars) that has a rubber plug in it. you can use

this place to run wires/hose, etc into the car.
62. run a vacuum line from the intake somewhere into the FMU if you are using one.
63. now onto the wideband bung. the slow expensive way is to get the bung welded on at a

shop(maybe get them to do it when you get the muffler work done). I just put the wideband

o2 sensor in the rear o2 sensor spot. It seems to work for the initial get go. I know, this

is a hack way of doing it, but the computer doesn't seem to mind at all for some reason. It

may make your car not pass emmision inspection though.
64. run the wires through the hole outlined in step 61.
65. if you did it right, you will have your wideband and boost gauges installed in the

pillar pods all wired and plumbed in now.
66. this part is tricky. you will have to get some silicone adapters to attach your

throttle body and the outlet on the turbo. this will be different in all cars. just fight

your way through it.
67. my method didn't include installing a intercooler, so I just plumbed the turbo outlet

into the bov, and the bov into the VAF, and the vaf into the throttle body.
68. don't overtighten the clamps on the vaf. it is fragile!
69. I just vented my BOV and wastegate to atmosphere. that is the quickest and coolest

sounding way to do it.
70. unless I missed something, you should be able to start the car now, and check to make

sure that nothing is touching/scorching against the new pipes that are crowding the engine

bay now.


some side notes(there will be lots of these in the time to come I am sure)

for some reason when you first start boosting, there is a strange sweet smell that comes in

the car. it isn't like coolant sweet, I think that it is the coating on the headers or

something burning off at high EGT's

also, watch your A/F gauge. under cruise it should be about 14.7? but under boost it

shouldn't go over 12.5:1 otherwise it will burn your engine down in no time flat!

try not to do any part throttle boosting also because the computer really runs lean in

these times, and the fmu won't be able to keep up(only if you have a fmu, and not the MSnS

or course)

be prepared to waste lots of gas in the first couple days/weeks! because it is the most fun

thing in the world to drive a car that has been turbo'd. baring the obvious of course.

I know I missed some stuff, but at least this will get you over some of the hurdles that I

had to jump over. I will be adding to it for a while too, so if anything is strange,

doesn't make sense, or needs to be clarified more, just post, and I will add/fix/modify as

needed :)

7

ps. it is a goal of mine to get a post in the faq section. :)

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January 18 2008, 3:32 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
Wow this is exciting. It makes me want to go turbo my car now. You should add pictures. Everyone loves a picture story.

Steve-O

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January 18 2008, 10:21 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
ya, pics are coming, weather permitting of course :)

-20 celcius here. :(

7

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January 18 2008, 12:48 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
Very very very nice thread ;)

Yeah I also want to see some pics here ;)

With arrows and explanations :D Keep it up! ;) Nice work!


January 19 2008, 3:56 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
this is becoming my favorite topic here :welder: :mrgreen: :freak:

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January 19 2008, 6:38 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
nice.. I'm just about to start my setup.. I'm going to use the same kit.. to start with.. upgrade as I go/learn more about tunning and such.

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February 02 2008, 9:17 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
so about how much does the whole install cost in parts total? About how much HP gain do you get outta the turbo?

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February 03 2008, 1:27 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
well, total cost....1500 plus(I did all the work myself of course)

and horsepower gain? I would say at least 70hp gain.

it is really fun to drive now. but no traction :)

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February 03 2008, 2:08 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
How hard would it be to go from having it installed on the K8 then after i do my KLZE swap to install it on that would it just be a matter of changing injectors?

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February 03 2008, 2:03 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
ya, that is al I would think that you would need.

7

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February 03 2008, 3:34 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
Great write up 7!

Might be easier to just get a Turbo Piping that hooks directly to Stock Exhaust Manifolds, installing the headers is the worst part of an install if the motor isnt pulled for a full rebuild. And since this is pretty much sounding like a very LOW PSI install the very small amount of flow you would gain from turbo headers really wouldnt be utilized under less than 10psi of boost anyways and save alot of headaches...

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March 26 2008, 7:04 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
Mx3Baker wrote:
How hard would it be to go from having it installed on the K8 then after i do my KLZE swap to install it on that would it just be a matter of changing injectors?


With the motor out it will alot easier, just get the headers on the ZE before you install it.

Remember that the ZE is higher CPR than the K8. I would not recommend putting it back in under the same ammount of boost as the K8 was.

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March 26 2008, 7:07 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
The level of boost is easy to adjust...Also, those headers where not THAT bad to install...

and besides, the turbo pipe kit os such a good deal, why not use it :)

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March 26 2008, 11:56 AM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
se7en wrote:
and besides, the turbo pipe kit os such a good deal, why not use it :)


I didnt see how much you paid for them.

I know the set that can bolt on to Stock EMs is about $450 and made of high quality materials and has the fittings for dumping the WG back into the Exhaust. I like that feature too. :shrug:

Still man, VERY great write up! Not trying to take anything away from the supurb job you did on that!

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March 26 2008, 1:34 PM
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Post Re: Turbochaging K series motors - walkthrough
neat, where did you get that pic?

I paid 272$ shipped to get the headers and the up and down pipes in 304 stainless.

it would have saved some time to use those pipes you suggested though..

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March 26 2008, 2:05 PM
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