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 doing a full engine rebuild! oil leaked out on the track.. 
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Joined: May 06 2013, 7:50 PM
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Post doing a full engine rebuild! oil leaked out on the track..
hey guys long story short. my oil pan blew on the track (from scraping the ground too much earlier) and lost all oil and i spun a bearing.. oh well ive always wanted to REBUILD my klze!

i bought a decked and honed block, main and rod bearings, breand new klze pistons + rings and used rods, polished crankshaft and a full gasket set including all gaskets pluss head bolts also got 8 new bottom end bolts for the bottom of the block

i think thats enough..am i right? i am using my heads off my engine (no damage at all)

i need to get a piston ring compressor

the guy i bought the block from said i need to get an angle attachment for my torque wrench... idn if i do i want another opinion from you guys

on the bottom of the engine that holds the bottom case onto the block (the crank is sandwiched inbetween) what are those torqued too?? and i heard they are supposed to be tightened (torqued) from the middle out does anyone know??

i also heard that what way you put in the piston is really important, so when you do it you have to have the little tab part of the ring bearing pointing to the outside of the block? is that correct?



all i need to know is what order those bottom bolts need to be torked in also what there torqued too, i couldent find anything online but i found everything else thanks!


May 02 2015, 9:53 AM
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Joined: October 08 2009, 5:35 PM
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Location: Eugene, OR
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Post Re: doing a full engine rebuild! oil leaked out on the track
NOTE: The images below are examples, they are not specific to K series engines, or Mazdas for that matter.

Tfries-cc wrote:
the guy i bought the block from said i need to get an angle attachment for my torque wrench... idn if i do i want another opinion from you guys

I would personally avoid any sort of "powered" ring compressor. This style seems to be commonly available, but I have not personally used one:
Image

Tfries-cc wrote:
on the bottom of the engine that holds the bottom case onto the block (the crank is sandwiched inbetween) what are those torqued too?? and i heard they are supposed to be tightened (torqued) from the middle out does anyone know??

The torque spec is in the shop manual - You can find the information here, I believe: http://mx-3.com/manuals/index.php

Tfries-cc wrote:
i also heard that what way you put in the piston is really important, so when you do it you have to have the little tab part of the ring bearing pointing to the outside of the block? is that correct?

I am not 100% on whether or not the pistons are symmetrical, but I have heard the same as you from a few sources. Definitely enough on both sides to confirm 100% before assembly.

Tfries-cc wrote:
all i need to know is what order those bottom bolts need to be torked in also what there torqued too, i couldent find anything online but i found everything else thanks!

You always, always, always, always torque from innermost to outermost, in either a criss-cross or star pattern, depending on the component being torqued. Here is an example: Image

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May 02 2015, 1:31 PM
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Joined: July 26 2006, 3:54 PM
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Location: Belfast -Northern Ireland
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Post Re: doing a full engine rebuild! oil leaked out on the track
The pistons are not symmetrical. They have markings near the pins.

The pictured ring compressor is what I used, plus oil and then just slip the skirt in then a few taps on the top with a piece of wood. Remember to clock your springs and adjust gaps as required.

Torque wrench angles, never bothered getting a gauge personally. It's pretty easy to guess 90deg with a 2' torque wrench sticking out. I did mark each one at the same point on the bolt head so I knew I'd definitely done it.

Torques are in the online manual, best of luck, enjoy it, it's fun!

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May 03 2015, 6:10 AM
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